The Rise of Thrifting Culture
My subject of choice is The Rise of Thrifting Culture. I chose this subject as thrifting is on the rise amongst the younger generation. Consumers aged 23 and below (Gen Zs) are “powering the preowned trend”, making the purchasing of second-hand items more popular than ever before. ThredUp, an online thrifting store, mentions that 80% of this age group finds no stigma associated with purchasing used fashion. 90% mention that it is a good alternative when “money gets tight.” It is predicted that this industry will reach US$80 billion by 2029, almost double the size when compared to the fast fashion industry (US$43 billion). However, for many people, the purchasing of second-hand items is still considered taboo.
I found that there is a differentiation between two forms of second-hand purchases:
The first is widely popular with the younger generation, as mentioned above. This includes the purchasing of vintage items, branded items, higher-end clothing and furniture. With fast fashion being impersonal and mainstream, thrifting allows you to find something unique and rare. It is rewarding and it is an opportunity to shape your individualistic style. These finds are considered high quality, rare, and environmentally friendly.
On the other hand, purchasing second-hand items can also be considered thrifty or knowing how to find a bargain. Why spend more when you can find the product (or an alternative) for less? This form of second-hand purchasing has been popular since the early 1950s with car boot sales and yard sales. Charity shops opened even earlier in the UK by 1899. This form of thrifting tends to be looked down upon, as clutter, cheap and for people who are stingy or cannot afford retail prices. It is tied to the view that a penny earned is a penny saved. These thrifts are considered low quality and of lower value.
With this being said, my aim is to find out the Maltese perspective on this topic. I created a Vox Pop with the intention of collecting different Maltese opinions on the subject. To bring the message of thrifting and second-hand clothing across, whilst gathering the reactions of the public.
I then aimed to contrast this with a few different forms of thrifting options available in Malta. Options available in Malta include car boot sales (Inspire), garage sales, charity stores (MSPCA), modern-day thrifting stores (Vogue Xchange, amongst others), thrift swap events, and Instagram profiles focusing on thrift finds/sales. I aimed to show the community around thrifting and the individualistic opinions held by the people taking part in these different establishments.
I found the change between the two forms of second-hand shopping interesting as well as how multiple people hold varied opinions on the subject ranging from excitement to disgust. The reason for choosing this area as my mentored practice is because social media has the power to change this outlook. I saw the possibility of learning and improving my capabilities in this area of communications, both by speaking and learning from an array of different people as well as from the tools needed to complete this project. I was curious to know the reasons behind these opinions and to share the positive outlook on the subject in order to break the taboo.
All of the new-age thrifting options run a web page or Facebook page which allows them to advertise the importance of thrifting, the accessibility, and the products available. The ease of access has allowed this area to become so popular today by relating to the younger audience and painting thrifting in a different light. With social media being a big aspect of the rise in popularity of thrifting culture, the VoxPop and the report have been published on a blog post so it can be easily shared with different audiences and ultimately spread information on the subject and decreasing negativity.
During our first meeting in December 2020, I expressed these thoughts on the subject to my mentor and we agreed a VoxPop would be the best way to collect a sample of the Maltese outlook on the subject. When my mentor confirmed that the faculty accepted the project, I brainstormed how to bring the message across and what questions I would ask a Maltese audience. The questions asked were as follows:
- What is your opinion on thrifted clothing (second-hand items) and have you ever donated used clothes?
- Do you have a favourite thrifted item or hand-me-down?
- Why do you think that the thrifting culture has become so popular amongst the younger generation?
- What do you think the Maltese outlook on the subject is?
As the culture of thrifting abroad moved at a different pace, I wanted to include popular examples of thrifting culture abroad to make the community behind it more accessible to someone who is not aware.
Second-hand items have been part of the Maltese culture for a while, for example, car boot sales and hand-me-downs in large families. So what is the difference between both views on thrifting? What we consider thrifting today is just second-hand shopping, with a facelift.
By presenting clothing in a similar way to designer labels (colour coordinating, sectioning, accessorising, and making use of mannequins) they are able to give the clientele a better experience and charge more than they would normally do.
It is more stressful rummaging through a large box of items where everything is priced at 0.50c rather than everything presented neatly, and all you need to do is select a dress of a hanger for €7.
Vox Pop Participants
I went and asked the Maltese people what their opinions on the subject is. We looked for a busy area and went to Sliema. The audience in this area were mostly 40+ years with a few exceptions. As well as a mixture of locals and foreigners. Thus the questions had to be adjusted slightly to involve foreign residents and opinions of those who were not interested in thrifting.
The location and people are interested in answering the questions resulted in mixed reactions to the subject. Residents from Sliema did not see the value in thrifting but only in donating clothes. In fact, the question “What is your favourite thrifted item?” was changed to “hand-me-down” so the participants could relate to the subject. Some foreign residents also replied that thrifting did not make part of their culture.
However, a few exceptions mentioned that thrifting was valuable. With clothing trends changing constantly, thrifting culture allows you to try something new at a cheap price or re-sell something which does not suit you.
Although numerous people responded differently, they all agree that donating used clothes was valuable for environmental causes and for the less fortunate.
When filming on the second day, we got a mixed sample from both Sliema and University. Due to our time restriction (available during the day) & covid restrictions. It was difficult to find young participants, who I felt would be more inclined to thrift. The second day resulted in more positive reviews on thrifting culture and disappointment towards the quality in Malta.
In Transit Project
Taking part in an additional project organised by students, a publication called In Transit. An article was written about Thrifting Culture, ‘Second-hand is not a Sin, it’s a Statement’ provides further depth into the subject. Additionally, as part of this project, we organised a thrifting challenge at the MSPCA Charity Shop in Sliema. I felt that this experience would provide further insight into the opinions on thrifting and the options available.
For this video, the participants had to find 2 different outfits in the store with a €10 budget in a short time frame. At the start of the video, they both felt disinclined to take part and felt uncomfortable by the thought of trying on someone else’s clothes. By the end of the video, they were trying on all the clothes and went home with finds that they really liked and were excited to incorporate into their style. As these projects are inline with Thrifting Culture, I also added this information to my blog post.
Conclusion
I enjoyed the project and was surprised at the differences in opinions of the participants, with different ages and backgrounds. However, I believe that a better sample of varied ages would have allowed a more conclusive result. I believe that the idea of thrifting has been in Malta all along, however it was tied to a lower social class hence the taboo. Today it has become more popular in Malta through foreign influence and social media making it more enticing.
References
